The wild Arribes del Duero in Portugal and Spain

We had driven north from Vila Velha de Ródão with its towering cliffs known as the Portas do Ródão, where we had spent the night. The following morning, we drove to Castelo Branco and once again crossed the border into Spain, the sky blue, heat haze disfiguring the road as we passed through the Sierra de Gata, our destination, La Alberca, high in the Sierra de la Peña de Francia, located
70 kilometres south of Salamanca and in the province of Salamanca in Castilla Y Leon.
The road was torturous, but the air relaxed as we passed through the pine forest, gaining height. Eventually, the switchback bends delivered us into La Alberca.  

We awoke early the following morning, refreshed and ready to explore the town. For breakfast, we had an incredible local bread stuffed with Chorizo sausage.

After breakfast, we again set out on another zigzagging road, this one spiralling us ever high towards the summit of Peña de Francia.

The views from the top of Peña de Francia, at 5666 feet, 1727 meters, are far-reaching.

Presumably, this sculptured window is a characterization of Simón Vela and his travels from
Santiago de Compostela via Salamanca to find the Peña de Francia.
It may just be Don Quixote!

Due to its height, the Peña de Francia is home to Alpine Accentors whose breeding grounds are usually above 1800mtrs.

They like barren areas and feed on Insects and seeds. It was undoubtedly bare up there, and their primary food source would have to be insects, as there was barely a blade of grass.

Later in the day, we passed through Ciudad Rodrigo and into the arribes, the local name for the complex of Duero river gorges. Once again, these canyons form the border between Portugal and Spain for close to 120 kilometres, and like the Rio Tajo gorges, they harbour significant populations
of cliff-nesting birds.    

You can see the road we travelled to access the can in the above photograph.

At the river level, we used one of the giant dams to cross the border back into Portugal, so again, you see Portugal on the left and Spain on the right. Swifts, Red Rumped and Barn Swallows hawk over the still water.

Positioned on top of an elevated outcrop, waiting to observe Vultures flying through the gorge, it was a surprise to see this Wren so high!

The Griffon Vultures look Great in the late afternoon sunshine.

They just soared past just below our viewpoint.

Some of them starting to moult.

The following morning, we returned early, just in time to catch a pair of Egyptian Vultures.

As the pair of Egyptian Vultures passed down the gorge, the Griffon Vultures started to launch from their roost.

Some Griffons wait on the rocks for the early morning air to warm before launching off the cliff face.

We made slow progress, following as close as possible to the gorge; we were still in Portugal and Spain, rising up across the water.

At times, the roads and tracks had become so rutted that it was impossible to travel along them, so we had to hike to the canyon.

While walking, we found this lovely Provence Hairstreak butterfly.

Two minutes later, we found a Green Hairstreak.

The end of another great visit!

We would travel North in Castilla y  León from here to search for the elusive.
Iberian Wolf.

Happy Days!

Birdwatching along the Tajo International river in Spain

With the Portuguese hilltop town of Marvão high above us, our road turned left, and we soon passed seamlessly into Spain, heading towards Valencia de Alcántara; shortly after this remote town, we once again turned left, this time a very minor road towards Cedillo. 

 We are now in the International Tajo, no sign of a river or cliffs,
 just the rolling Dehesa and scrub warblers.
We bear right, and the road winds down towards the Tajo River, the international border splitting Spain and Portugal; the river forms the border for some 40 Kilometres. 

Here, the green-clad cliffs are home to Black Storks, Egyptian Vultures, Black and Griffon Vultures, Golden and Bonelli's Eagles, Short-Toed Eagles, Black Kites and Booted Eagles are seen with many other cliff and rock species.
We will follow the river upstream to Alcantara through a wonderfully remote landscape,
full of nature.

Portugal to the right and Spain on the left, the Rio Tajo centre stage.

Black Kites hunt along the green cliffs.

A critical species for our visit was the Blue Rock Thrush.

It was perfect timing, as the male birds sought partners and were very visible as they sang and defended their territories.

Our road continues through small deserted villages towards a tributary of the Tajo, the Rio Salzar.

Black Vulture "What a bird!" is so massive!

Black Stork, what a day!

Unbelievably, the Black Stork and Black Vulture circle together on the thermal.
Just look at the size of the Vulture compared to the Stork.

At this time of year, Short-Toed Eagles are familiar.

A pair of Crag Martins, beautifully camouflaged, take a rest from their nest building.

On the cliff face, we can watch their nest-building progress.

The Emabalse de Alcántara is a vital breeding ground for the Black Stork; during our visit, we were lucky to see two females arriving at the nesting site; the males had already returned.

Reunited on their nest, "Yes, that is a CCTV camera," all the nests here are given maximum protection.

Egyptian Vultures are also nesting close by.

Synchronised flying by a pair of Egyptian Vultures!

Meanwhile, the resident Griffon Vultures looks on.

We find acres of wildflowers and Red Deer above the river.

A hunting Spanish Imperial Eagle.

What a fantastic area to visit.

For us, the road heads North, and we will return!

Alter-Real Stud and a slow road through Portugal

 Travelling north, we left the heavy rains of Spain and Portugal's Algarve behind us. With no hurry, we passed along the many small, winding roads, enjoying the scenery.  

This little church sits atop a hill with its grizzly history close to Castro Verde.
It commemorates the Battle of Ourique on 25th July 1139.

Outside the church is a mural depicting the battle.

Stunning wildflowers carpeted the countryside.

Corn Buntings adorned fenceposts.

We passed through small villages and towns taking on supplies; here in Portel an excellent baker, and the Pastel de nata was superb!

In Alter do Chão we had been sitting in the shade enjoying coffee before we visited the
Alta Real Stud.

This astounding SStud is the birthplace of the Alter-Real Lusitano breed of horses,
which have been bred here since its foundation in 1748 by King João V.

We enjoyed watching a training session, where some young stallions were put through their paces before a full tour of the Stud.

For Linda, this was to be the highlight of our trip through Portugal, as she loves the Lusitano and Spanish Andalusian breeds.

The thirty or so stallions are housed in this magnificent old building,
that echoes their snorting testosterone.

In an altogether more tranquil setting, the sixty breeding mares and their foals rest,
on deep straw, away from the heat of the day.
They are turned out to roam on the fields at night, to enjoy the grass and the freedom.

There is also an exciting carriage museum housing many types of carriages.
We enjoyed a fantastic afternoon here among those beautiful horses and hope to return,
perhaps to the annual auction held on or around 24th April.

The road through the Serra de São Mamede became a little testing!

Almond blossoms lined the many small roads we explored, twisting over the countryside.

A local fisherman unloads his catch of freshwater fish below the castle at Juromenha,
on the Rio Guadiana.

Most of the catch had been Carp and Zander.

Further upriver, House Martin's are busy nest building, beaks full of the wet mud.

This old bridge is an excellent House and Crag Martins nesting site.

Mimosa, with its delicate fern-like leaves blooming yellow all around us.

Also bright yellow, the male Siskins are busy singing and looking for mates.

Happy travels!