Discovering the Sierra de Cazorla, Segura y los Villas.

We are still in Spain and on our way to see a giant, the alluring Sierra de Cazorla, Spain's largest protected area.
Having spent the weekend in Sta Elena High in the Desfiladero de Despeñaperros, enjoying the food, wine and brandy at El Mesón and, of course, catching up on the laundry (one of those necessities)
Monday morning, we were back on the road early and enjoying the views towards the mountains of Mágina, which peaked at 2167 meters.

Like most Jaén, it is covered in Olive trees; it's a welcome relief to see the spectacular mountains pushing upward ruthlessly out of the regimental green lines.

As we climbed higher, we could see towns like Santisteban del Puerto sitting high above the crop of endless Olive trees.

By lunchtime, we are on a tiny road on the North face of the Sierra de Cazorla and stop for our Lunch at the Embalse de Aguascebas. The peace is complete, just vultures soaring overhead.

During the afternoon, the road had deteriorated considerably, and we were encountering patches of snow and ice covering the surface, not melting away due to the long mountain shadows. It was still a long journey to Tranco, and I wanted to visit the Garganta on the way.

Luck was not with us, and after crossing a lengthy patch of ice and snow followed by a blind right bend, we could see the road impassable; we could see sunshine across the valley, but there in the shadow of the steep mountain, snow, and thick ice blocking the road, not helped by the steep gradient of the road.
We had no alternative other than to turn around, a precarious experience on the narrow mountain road. Our problems were not over, though, as we could not get the grip upwards through the ice and snow we had crossed coming down. The only chance of getting out before the temperatures dropped again was to dig through the ice and snow. Taking turns with our emergency shovel, we cleared snow and chipped through the ice, followed by three attempts to drive out. We eventually made it some hours after arriving.

The following morning, still licking our wounds but feeling upbeat, we set off on a new route around the Sierra,
Our upbeat feeling was bolstered further when Linda spotted a herd of Female Ibex and their young on the mountainside.

Ibex are herd animals dictated by gender. Males are in one herd, and females and their young are in another. Sometimes, a male will roam alone; they come together mainly in the breeding season.
This is a female herd, it seems; otherwise, it is pretty challenging to tell them apart as they both, male and female, have large curved horns, which are used at the breeding time for sexual selection and, of course, for defending their territories.

By lunchtime, we were close to the Sierra Cazorla Visitors Center
 (Torre del Vinagre) and a good time to stop for Lunch. The river Guadalquivir passes below the centre, so it is an excellent place to park; it is probably too early in the year to see a Dipper or countless dragonflies and butterflies found here.
 The setting was serene, and it appeared impossible that this small waterway would soon become that mighty river that we have seen causing destructive flooding through Cordoba and its environs in past years, eventually giving life to the Donana National Park, Europe's most important wetlands.
   

A fawn departs on the opposite river bank, following Mum and sibling, who have already disappeared.

Refreshed, we spend the afternoon climbing, passing towns like Hornos constructed around the cliff face.

As we near Pontones high in the mountains, we observe a pair of soaring Golden Eagles.

Sadly, we are looking directly into the strong sunshine, "I know you cannot have everything, and we are just so happy to have seen them." 

 It had been snowing heavily up there, and our recent experiences were now causing a minor concern. It would have been great to have photographed the town of Pontones, with its interestingly constructed houses and so isolated. Still, we pressed on, wanting to reach our destination before nightfall.

At last! With the sun starting to set, we had made it across the mountain. Opening out in front of us the beginnings of Andalucia's badlands and our night stop at Puebla de Don Fadrique.

The following day's view was magnificent; we could see the Sierra Nevada in the far distance.

On the roadside above Castril, we find an Olive Oil co-operative and can't resist buying some fresh-pressed oil.
  

Above Castril, the Embalse del Portillo.

Our journey has again turned us North, leaving the Sierra Nevada behind us. 

From the narrow mountain road, we looked down on the heavily eroded and semi-barren mesa.

The road crosses deep gorges with no winter sun as it snakes higher.

A fine view towards the Puerto de Tiscar and the watchtower Alalaya del Infante Don Enrique. Also, the Church of Santuario de Nuestra Señora de Tiscar is the historical patron of Cazorla and the most religious figure in these mountains.
Both are dwarfed by the towering Picón del Rayal, rising to 1835 meters and the highest mountain in this Southern park section. The name "Rayal" means "frontier" during the Middle Ages. Along with the watchtower is a reminder that this was the border between the Morrish Kingdom of Granada and Christian Spain for almost three centuries
Today is a good place for observing large numbers of Vultures, Eagles, and these beautiful Spanish Ibex.

Ibex are herbivores and have to spend most of their day eating the mountain shrubs, bushes, and grass, which are of low nutritional worth, so it is pretty surprising to see a few of them lying in the warm sunshine.

They have a lifespan of approximately 17 years.
This is quite surprising when you see their precarious positions while looking for food.
They centimetres) Craig is 1.8 metres out, having to move forward!

This kid and its Mother are using their interestingly formed hoofs to stand on the mountain's sheer face. The hoofs have sharp edges and concave undersides, acting like rock suction caps.
  

With another day nearing its end, we must find somewhere to stop for the night.

What a great day!

Sierra de Andújar home of the Pardel Lynx

You could say that we had "entered Sierra de Andújar through the back door." We climbed slowly higher from the former coal-mining town of Puertollano, the open cast mining landscape replaced by grazing cattle and sheep, passing through the narrow settlement of Mestanza and higher the Sierra Madrona, both beautiful and devoid of other road users.
 Here in this remote corner of Andalucia, we find the Northern extreme of the Sierra Andújar.

This is the Province border between Jaén and Andalusia. Andalusia is not committed to spending on the road surface, and our onward progress is plodding as we avoid multiple potholes.

The road does not detract from the view, and we have time to ponder our chances of spotting a Pardel Lynx in this vast area, "third time lucky." Um!

Short-toed treecreeper (Certhia brachydactyla)

We park and walk along the charming Jándula River, birdsong exploding.
It is about 2.5 kilometres from the picnic area up to the dam, well worth the time as there is usually lots to see, like this Short-Toed Treecreeper.
As evening descends, small gatherings of people gather close to the dam; they hope to see two sightings: the pair of Otter often seen on this stretch of the river and an elusive Pardel Lynx.

A Red Deer watches our progress, not alarmed by our presence.
No Otters and no Lynx on our first evening.

As the low Winter sun starts to rise on our first morning, we are out fresh and alert. The sun had been up 45 minutes when a shadow seemed to move down the hillside on the opposite side of the river.
It took a lot of work to make a positive identity with the light, large boulders, and shrubbery.

"Movement"! And there it is, not the best photograph in the World, but it is a Pardel Lynx in the wild.
The tracking collar is looking very warn. Apparently, the collar colour correlates to the Lynx's given name.

Sadly! Gone so fast.

It just disappeared into the undergrowth.
To say they are challenging to see, there were a few guys only 15 meters away from us, and they missed it!
As the best time to see the Lynx is early and late, we spent the rest of the day observing other local wildlife.

Nuthatch (Sitta europaea)

In the forest, this Nuthatch finds a Moth in the Lichen.

Horseshoe Whip Snake (Haemorrhoids Hippocrepis or Coluber hippocrepis)

Horseshoe Whip Snake is a non-poisonous snake.
Enjoying the sun on the rocks.

Azure-winged Magpie (Cyanpica cyanus)

Large numbers of these charming birds, usually found in family groups, appear to love the stone pines. They are pretty shy and alert birds.

Our second day had not started well; the early morning fog was getting thicker as the sun rose.

The previous morning, at this time, we were photographing a Lynx; it's hard to see a Cormorant at 10 meters on this occasion.

As the fog starts to lift, we scan the right-hand bank, but it's not to be today.

As we have said, the Sierra Andújar is a large area. At La Lancha, you will find the most popular Lynx-watching area. At the weekends, watchers line the twisting mountain road with their telescopes and picnic chairs. Plenty of Red Deer exists if you are not lucky enough to peek at a Lynx here.

The view looking down the Rio Jádula.
It was a great visit for us and a third time lucky.
Lynx-watching really is a case of lots of patience and even more luck!

Happy Days, indeed!

Parque Nacional de las Tablas de Daimiel Birdwatching.

It was January, and the Winter days were short. We had left Zaragoza later than planned, heading West towards Madrid, where we would turn South. As the road climbed higher and fresh falls of snow covered the hillsides, we decided to seek refuge for the night. The hilltop town of Medinaceli looked very picturesque with the setting Sun.

Medinaceli is home to Spain's only three-gated Roman arch, constructed in the 1st-3rd Centuries A.D.

With the setting sun and snow, it all looked quite charming, but there is a darker side to this hilltop town, that being the "Toro Jubilo", a festival that takes place here in November,
   denouncing the occupation of Spain by the Moors.
A Bull is tied to a post, and a thick layer of mud is applied to its Head, Neck, and Back. Once this is completed, balls of tar are attached to the animal's Horns and set alight. Once the tar is burning, the Bull is set free in the enclosure. Some people then terrify the beast further by running at it with red flags and trying to prod it!

Thank goodness it's January.

On that Monday evening, the Plaza Mayor was quiet; only a snowman remained from the weekend's visitors.

The following day, in brilliant sunshine, we went south through the Alcarria Baja region of Guadalajara, passing around the Embalse de Entreprēnas on the Rio Tagus, which formed with the other accumulation of Embalses that make up the "sea of Castile."

Lunch at Sayatón and another of Spain's famous rivers, the Rio Tajo.

Great Bustard (Otis tarda)

After lunch, our road took us onto the great Plain of La Mancha in the Province of Ciudad Real. South of Lillo, heading for Alcázar de San Juan, is the La Mancha Húmeda, which has many semi-endorheic lagoons.
At one, the Laguna de Tirez, we chanced upon a flock of thirty Great Bustards that took to the air and crossed our path.

Far across the plain, the distant skyline is dotted with windmills above the towns of Consuegra and Alcázar de San Juan. These (above) are at Puerto Lapice, where we stopped for the night. The giant plain of La Mancha, famous for its wines, brandy, and Olives, stretches to the horizon and beyond.

Black Redstart (Gibraltariensis)

The following morning brought dense fog and a slow drive to the Tablas de Daimiel—not the best day for bird watching!
Our first bird of the day, this beautiful, if wet, Black Redstart,  perched on the car park wall.

Hoopoe (Eurasian) Upupa epops

Also, this Hoopoe was digging for grubs in the car park and was damp from the fog again.

Greylag Goose (Anser anser)

Given the foggy conditions, even the Graylag Geese seemed unsure of what to do.

Once again, the controversial water levels here in Spain's smallest natural park seemed very low. The aquifers have had colossal water level problems for years, and farmers have been boring illegal wells. In 2009, Spain's secretary of state for water stated, "We are about to lose the Tablas de Daimiel." The European Union demanded an explanation of what was happening to this significant wetland, located midway between Africa and Northern Europe, which acts as an essential stopover for migrating birds and a vast breeding ground for many species.

Due to the deficient water levels, we decided to concentrate our time permanently on the Laguna. This is where the Rio Guadiana enters the Tablas, and the water level is more stable.

Marsh Harrier (Western) Circus aeruginosus

Later in the morning, as the fog started to lift, we had good views of three Marsh Harriers, two female and one male, out on a dead tree.

The male bird departs for the open fields.

Bearded reedling (Panurus biarmicus)

What we used to call Bearded Tits, but in fact, they are closely related to the Larks. It breeds colonially in the reed beds. The two males we photographed were busy eating the reed seeds.

Chiffchaff (Common) Phylloscopus collybita

Chiffchaffs are very busy in the reeds, looking for insects.

Leaving Daimiel, we stopped at the Pueblo of Luciana, close to the Rio Guadiana.
The next part of our journey would take us South to the Sierra de Andújar.

Kingfisher (Common) Alcedo atthis

A clear, frosty morning had greeted us. We had breakfast and walked along the river bank, where we found a Kingfisher warming in the weak Winter sun.
Later in the morning, we observe Black black-shouldered kites and a pair of distant subadult Spanish Imperial Eagles.

Our journey continues into Lynx territory.


Happy Days!