Discovering the Sierra de Cazorla, Segura y los Villas.

We are still in Spain and on our way to see a giant, the alluring Sierra de Cazorla, Spain's largest protected area.
Having spent the weekend in Sta Elena High in the Desfiladero de Despeñaperros, enjoying the food, wine and brandy at El Mesón and, of course, catching up on the laundry (one of those necessities)
Monday morning, we were back on the road early and enjoying the views towards the mountains of Mágina, which peaked at 2167 meters.

Like most Jaén, it is covered in Olive trees; it's a welcome relief to see the spectacular mountains pushing upward ruthlessly out of the regimental green lines.

As we climbed higher, we could see towns like Santisteban del Puerto sitting high above the crop of endless Olive trees.

By lunchtime, we are on a tiny road on the North face of the Sierra de Cazorla and stop for our Lunch at the Embalse de Aguascebas. The peace is complete, just vultures soaring overhead.

During the afternoon, the road had deteriorated considerably, and we were encountering patches of snow and ice covering the surface, not melting away due to the long mountain shadows. It was still a long journey to Tranco, and I wanted to visit the Garganta on the way.

Luck was not with us, and after crossing a lengthy patch of ice and snow followed by a blind right bend, we could see the road impassable; we could see sunshine across the valley, but there in the shadow of the steep mountain, snow, and thick ice blocking the road, not helped by the steep gradient of the road.
We had no alternative other than to turn around, a precarious experience on the narrow mountain road. Our problems were not over, though, as we could not get the grip upwards through the ice and snow we had crossed coming down. The only chance of getting out before the temperatures dropped again was to dig through the ice and snow. Taking turns with our emergency shovel, we cleared snow and chipped through the ice, followed by three attempts to drive out. We eventually made it some hours after arriving.

The following morning, still licking our wounds but feeling upbeat, we set off on a new route around the Sierra,
Our upbeat feeling was bolstered further when Linda spotted a herd of Female Ibex and their young on the mountainside.

Ibex are herd animals dictated by gender. Males are in one herd, and females and their young are in another. Sometimes, a male will roam alone; they come together mainly in the breeding season.
This is a female herd, it seems; otherwise, it is pretty challenging to tell them apart as they both, male and female, have large curved horns, which are used at the breeding time for sexual selection and, of course, for defending their territories.

By lunchtime, we were close to the Sierra Cazorla Visitors Center
 (Torre del Vinagre) and a good time to stop for Lunch. The river Guadalquivir passes below the centre, so it is an excellent place to park; it is probably too early in the year to see a Dipper or countless dragonflies and butterflies found here.
 The setting was serene, and it appeared impossible that this small waterway would soon become that mighty river that we have seen causing destructive flooding through Cordoba and its environs in past years, eventually giving life to the Donana National Park, Europe's most important wetlands.
   

A fawn departs on the opposite river bank, following Mum and sibling, who have already disappeared.

Refreshed, we spend the afternoon climbing, passing towns like Hornos constructed around the cliff face.

As we near Pontones high in the mountains, we observe a pair of soaring Golden Eagles.

Sadly, we are looking directly into the strong sunshine, "I know you cannot have everything, and we are just so happy to have seen them." 

 It had been snowing heavily up there, and our recent experiences were now causing a minor concern. It would have been great to have photographed the town of Pontones, with its interestingly constructed houses and so isolated. Still, we pressed on, wanting to reach our destination before nightfall.

At last! With the sun starting to set, we had made it across the mountain. Opening out in front of us the beginnings of Andalucia's badlands and our night stop at Puebla de Don Fadrique.

The following day's view was magnificent; we could see the Sierra Nevada in the far distance.

On the roadside above Castril, we find an Olive Oil co-operative and can't resist buying some fresh-pressed oil.
  

Above Castril, the Embalse del Portillo.

Our journey has again turned us North, leaving the Sierra Nevada behind us. 

From the narrow mountain road, we looked down on the heavily eroded and semi-barren mesa.

The road crosses deep gorges with no winter sun as it snakes higher.

A fine view towards the Puerto de Tiscar and the watchtower Alalaya del Infante Don Enrique. Also, the Church of Santuario de Nuestra Señora de Tiscar is the historical patron of Cazorla and the most religious figure in these mountains.
Both are dwarfed by the towering Picón del Rayal, rising to 1835 meters and the highest mountain in this Southern park section. The name "Rayal" means "frontier" during the Middle Ages. Along with the watchtower is a reminder that this was the border between the Morrish Kingdom of Granada and Christian Spain for almost three centuries
Today is a good place for observing large numbers of Vultures, Eagles, and these beautiful Spanish Ibex.

Ibex are herbivores and have to spend most of their day eating the mountain shrubs, bushes, and grass, which are of low nutritional worth, so it is pretty surprising to see a few of them lying in the warm sunshine.

They have a lifespan of approximately 17 years.
This is quite surprising when you see their precarious positions while looking for food.
They centimetres) Craig is 1.8 metres out, having to move forward!

This kid and its Mother are using their interestingly formed hoofs to stand on the mountain's sheer face. The hoofs have sharp edges and concave undersides, acting like rock suction caps.
  

With another day nearing its end, we must find somewhere to stop for the night.

What a great day!