The visit to Lake Como, Maggiore, and Orta came a bit sooner than we had anticipated. As usual, it was all about the weather.
According to Aldous Huxley, I had read that the town of Mantua, between Verona and Venice, was the most romantic city in the world. Its skyline of domes, towers, and three lakes is surrounded by romance. We arrived late and would tour the streets tomorrow.
Alas, on awakening, there was unimaginable dense fog. Northern Italy in late October and all that water. After a quick crisis meeting, we decided to leave the visit Mantua for another day and head for Lake Como.
The fog has lingered all morning; as we pass through Bergamo's upper medieval quarter, we see nothing but gloom.
By the time we reached Lecco, the fog had started to lift, and there were fine views over the Lake.
The beautiful Como above, backed by the high mountains and forests, swept down to the water's edge. The water is green and blue, a natural habitat for us. We walk along the shoreline; there is a calmness, the air is full of bird song, and large flocks of Serins race through the Birch trees. The fog, now a mist, has retreated and hangs over the mountain valleys. In the morning, we travel to Maggiore.
The road to Lago Maggiore takes us through Lugano in Switzerland. There is beautiful sun as we drive through Lugano and back into Italy. We arrive in the pretty town of Cannobio, on the western side of Maggiore. The streets are steep and cobbled, with houses of pink and cream leading down to the Lake below.
There is a Mediterranean atmosphere, palms and oleanders growing, and snow on the top of the mountains. It is beautiful, overlooking the little harbour. Cannobio's only sight at the promenade's far end is the Santuario dell Pieta, built to house the painting of the Pieta, which supposedly began to bleed around 1522.
The journey across the mountain to Lago d'Orta is short but worth the time. Locally, Orta is known as "Cinderella" and is the last Lake on this visit.
We agree with the locals. This is what we imagined of the Italian lakes; this is the best for us.
It has palm trees, exotic plants, and opulent villas that look into the deep blue water. In the warm sun, it feels pretty tropical.
It also has "Orta San Giulio", the most captivating medieval village on any lake.
With narrow, cobbled lanes and wrought iron balconies on the tall pastel-washed palazzi.
The shadows portray the narrow streets.
Plazzo della Comunita, town hall, with its faded frescos.
In the Piazza Motta, galleries and restaurants share space under the arcades.
Beyond the restaurant, Isola San Giulio is an intriguing island resting in the blue waters.
In legend, the realm of dragons is long banished.
Looking out across the Isola San Giulio, dominated by the Convent and Romanesque tower of the Basilica.
The town of Pella fronts the far shore with its bustling promenade.
Does it feed the little Lake below?
That speck of white just on its marge
Is Pella; see, in the evening glow,
How sharp the silver spear-heads charge
When Alp meets heaven in the snow!
That speck of white just on its marge
Is Pella; see, in the evening glow,
How sharp the silver spear-heads charge
When Alp meets heaven in the snow!
from By the Fire-Side, by Robert Browing (1812-1889)
il Sacro Monte di Orta.
Overlooking Lago d'Orta is a collection of 20 chapels dedicated to St Francis of Assisi.
The chapels are filled with statues depicting scenes of the saint's life.
It stands on the sacred Mount of Firs. Sculptured by the glaciers of the Quaternary period, today it is forested with Scotch firs, Ash trees, and blueberries. Many walk up from Orta village just for the view and the pine-filled air.
Chapel 20, The Canonisation of Saint Francis.
St Francis of Assisi.
The shadows create such a dramatic atmosphere at the end of a beautiful day.
The village and Lake are unforgettably romantic, and we hope to return one day,
especially to the "Cinderella" Orta.
Happy travels!
